Saturday, July 21, 2012

Arles and Les Baux


Friday, July 20.  We spent the day in and around Arles, one of the most charming and historic of Provence towns. Arles, originally a Greek settlement, gained favor with Caesar and his successors and became one of the most  important Provencial cities.  Arles was built like Rome, with a fourth century emperor's palace, now in ruins, an amphitheatre which seated 10,000 citizens where gladiators fought bears, wolves, and bulls.         Arles flourished in Roman times.  Today the amphitheatre still is the scene of bullfighting, however the bull is no longer killed.   The amphitheater is under renovation, but is still well- preserved with two floors of arches.  

Ancient Roman amphitheater in Arles (Arènes d'Arles)


The city gates are still standing but have been seriously restored. They stand either side of the Via Aurelia, the highway which ran all the way from Arles to Rome.  Nothing remains of the Place du Forum, but it still is the hub of the town and also the inspiration for Vincent Van Gogh's painting Cafe Terrace at Night (1888).
It is still a vibrant cafe on the square with yellow awnings. Vincent Van Gogh made his home in Arles and nearby St-Remy. It was the Provencial sunshine and influence of his friend/foe Gauguin that changed the way he saw light and color.  We visited the psychiatric clinic in St-Remy where he stayed for over a year and where he discovered again the joy of painting, turning out canvas after canvas inspired by the wheat fields, irises, trees, sunflowers that flourished in the region.  

Cafe Terrace at Night (1888), Vincent Van Gogh

The Cafe that served as inspiration as it stands today


We rode to a nearby quarry at the foot of Les Baux for a most unique experience at the Carrieres de Lumieres where we viewed a visual exhibit like an IMAX but on the walls of this former limestone quarry. Many many projectors displayed an ever changing display of works by Van Gogh and Gauguin, set to hauntingly beautiful music.  Unbelievable!  

The other part of our group visited Les Baux, whose name refers to the Bauxite (an aluminum ore) that was found in the region.  Les Baux was an early defensive site for the Provence.  Les Baux finally became part of the French Provence, becoming a Protestantism center and attempting an  unsuccessful revolt against the French crown in1632.  From it's lofty heighth the view of the countryside was breathtaking.  

Village and countryside of Les Baux


From there they traveled to Moulin Huile de Calanquet, an olive growing area in Ste-Remy   One member of the group is shipping home 2 gallons of her favorite! (See previous post) 

After dinner and cake with Dwight and Jean Denny who were celebrating their anniversary, the Amadagio docked in Avignon, our next port of call.  What adventures are in store for us tomorrow?  

A demain........

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